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  • was a Parsee of slender build, d●ressed

  • in European garb, the trousers of w

  • hi●ch, fitting his long leg

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s all too snugly, gav●e him a strangely spiderlike ●appearance.A small velvet skull-cap, e


▓mbroidered in red and pink with representatio▓ns of flowers and leaves, sat imperturbable ▓on the top of his head, holding its place with● every movement of his li



were ▓as near the center as if they had ●been bored by a musket in the hands of a blind● man at one hundred paces.The driv▓er was with great difficulty inspired t▓o acti

Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate.

on, and was totally incapable of transmi▓tting such inspiration to his a▓nimals.Along the boulevard the craft moved at● the cumbersome gait of a land crab; in the ●rougher streets it pitched and rolled like▓ a derelict in the trough of the waves.● The Taj Mahal

, Agra, India 349The Parsee▓, accustomed to this fancied solution ▓

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of the transit problem of Agr▓a, fell into that half doze o▓f dreamy contentment typical of the home-comin▓g suburbanite the world over, and roused● himself only when the rattle of the cobble ▓stones of his own courtyard d●isturbed his ruminations.We alight▓ed eq

ui-distant from two squat b●ungalows, of which the fire-worshiper▓ gav

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e me leave to enter the forme●r, ere he retired to the bosom of his family▓ in the other.My new home housed▓ a band of servants and a lodger.The▓ deep veranda was curtained by▓ a network of creeping vines that the dro▓ught had touched with autumn colors.As I mo●u

nted the steps, a long-drawn▓ groan sounded from the semi-darkness, and I w●as greeted by the

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  • sight of the ▓lodger tossing deliriousl

  • y on one ▓of two dilapidated willow

armchairs wit▓h which the piazza was furnis●hed.A fever raged within him—the first ▓symptoms, he was convinced, of the ▓plague that would carry him off● before dawn.Plainly he did not car●e to go.The charpoys within were all o▓ccupied.I prempted the unoccupied?/p>

?chair and listened through the night t▓o the Eurasian’s frenzied end

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eavo▓r to frighten off the grim visitor. To ▓the grief of the Parsee, I fled from his sw●eat-box the next afternoon, and, having visited● Agra and her incomparable Taj Mahal, too●k night train to Delhi.The traveler who j●ourneys slowly northward through this la

nd of st▓range scenes and superstitions lo▓ses sight, oftentimes, of t


he fact that no ▓other political entity includes within ●its borders so many heterogeneous elements.Indi●a is not the dwelling place of one p●eople.The Punjabi of the north

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lighted, I was surprised to

d●iffers as much from the Maduran as the Scotchm▓an from the Neapolitan.The hillman and the ▓man of the plains p

rove on c●lose acquaintance to have little more in comm▓on than their brown skins and their mis●ery.Shake your fist at a Madras▓i and he will take to his heels.● Deny a Gurka the privilege of fightin▓g and

s▓ee, in a letter

you have robbed him of all that makes● life worth living. The casu●al tourist, noting only sligh▓t changes fro

m day to day, may not realize th▓is diversity of population.But le●t him push on to Shahjehanabad, the city▓ of King John, which they who dwell ●elsewhere call Delhi.Here is a differen▓t world, an Arab world

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almost, to remind ▓him that Islam once held vast sway in the la▓nd of Hind.Easily might he fancy▓ himself again

in Damascus.As in “Shaam,” h●ere are labyrinthian streets, each given up to ▓a single trade.In shaded nooks and corners the● black-bearded scribe plies his art; from m●any a minaret sounds the chant o●f th


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e muezzin; the fez vies with 350the ▓turban for supremacy.Lean-faced B▓edouins and files of cushion-shod camels ●

bring with them a suggestion of the wild● sweep of the desert; and, if another● touch is needed, over all hovers▓ those crowning symbols of Mohammedan civiliza●tion,—filth and pariah dogs. But with● the

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squalor came new privile▓ges to sahib wanderers.Of Mohammeda●n eating-shops there were plenty, and never a● prote

st rose against me when I paused to c▓hoose from the steaming kettles f●ramed in the doorway.The messes, if the b▓lear-eyed Islamite who stirred the ▓fires under them was to be believ▓ed, contained no other


flesh than mut▓ton.There were bones in more than one dis●h that looked suspiciously small for those▓ of the sheep

; and the rabbit is not in▓digenous to India.But quién sabe ●The light-skinned vagrant is too than●kful, certainly, for an opportunity to sati●sfy his carnivorous tastes to a●ppoint himself a committee of●


investigation or to inquire into th●e status of the pure food law. I▓t was this scent of a more western world perhap●s, which soon brought upon me

the realization t●hat our unplanned excursion “up c●ountry” had carried me a th▓ousand miles afield.I awoke one morning ●resolved to

turn eastward on●ce more.Unfortunately the turning▓ lacked impetus, for in my pocket were four l●onely coppers.A half-day’s se●arch in the native city f

ailed to bring to li▓ght any demand for white-skinned labor, a▓nd I concluded to make public my● offer of services through the district com

m●issioner. The afternoon siesta was ended an▓d the élite of Delhi were awakeni▓ng to new life when I crossed the ●bridge spanning the railway yar

ds and en▓tered the cantonment and the European ●section.Over miles of rolling coun●try, thinly streaked by the shade of those ●few wi


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epres●ented The Hindu street-sprinkler does not la▓y much dust 351A score of smart traps and● dog carts, in charge of gorge●ously liveried sas were draw▓n up about the long, two-story club-

▓house.On the neighboring courts four pairs of ●linen-clad Englishmen, surrounded by a select a▓udience o

f admiring memsahibs and a hundred wond▓ering servants, were playing tennis wi▓th that deliberate, dispassionate energy which t▓he Briton of the “clawsses” puts into ▓everything from a casual greeting to ▓a suicide.The honorable commissioner s▓ahib K.C.B., M.A

., V.C, Bart, etc.▓, was stretched out in a reclining chair in ●the smokin

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g-room of the club, his atte▓ntion divided between a cigarette▓ and cooling beverage and the activities of sev●eral other distinguished preservers of the ▓alphabet, who were driving a red and ▓tw

o white balls about a green tab▓le with characteristic vim and vigor.The nativ●e who pointed out the might

y man from th▓e shelter of a veranda fern refused i●n an awe-struck whisper to deliver my● message until I had threatened to enter▓ this sanctum of social superiority unann▓ounced.The Englishman bellowed a protest at ●being disturbed, but rose and advanced to th

●e door, glass in hand. “I say, you know,” h●e cried, in a voice having

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●ing away, “this is no employme●nt bureau.I’m going over for a game of te●nnis and I’ll bid you good day.” ▓ “Then you’ll need someone to chase tennis b●alls

for you,” I called after him, “I●’m fairly fast on my feet.” “Chas●e tennis balls!” cried the ▓governor, coming back.“Do you me●an you would run around before a crowd of nati▓ve servants—you—a white man 癃and—” “Sure.Won’t you” 3●5

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e, but, being an● unusually quick-witted Englishman▓, grinned as he turned away. ●“Very well,” he said, over

his shoulder, “wai●t for me over at the second court.I’ll g▓ive you a rupee a set—in railway fare▓—to-morrow.” I was perspiringl▓y engaged as offic

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ial ball-c●haser of the Delhi tennis club ▓until twilight put an end to the sport, faggi●ng three games for the c

ommi▓ssioner and as many more for his friends●.The reward, however, was no●t immediately forthcoming; and I turned ba▓ck as penniless as I had come,▓ towar

One fourth

ds Delhi, four miles distant●.The half-audible melody of a summer ni●ght was broken now and then ▓by the patter o

f native feet along th●e dusty roadway, but I tramped o▓n for the most part in silence.Onc●e I was startled by a lu

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sty chorus o●f male voices that burst out suddenly▓ from the darkness ahead in wor●ds of my own tongue; and a mom

en●t later a squad of red-coats, bound barrack-●ward after a merry afternoon on leav●e, trooped by me, arm in arm,

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sing●ing at the top of their lungs, “The Place where● the Punkah-wallah Died.” It is a sorrow●ful ditty, this f

avorite ballad of the Tommy At▓kins of India, bearing as it does the fina▓l word on the infernal calidity▓ of the p

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eninsula.The punkah-●wallah is as insensible to the su●n’s rays as any living mortal, ●his station is a shaded v

eranda, his labor t●he languid moving of a weightless fan.He of t▓he ballad died of the heat at his post. Be●nt


on finding lodging in a deserted coa●ch, I slid down the steep slope at th▓e edge of the European section into the b▓road railway yards.A policeman pat●rolled the ban

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k above; detecti▓ves lurked in the narrow alleyway●s between the long rows of side-tracked cars; a▓nd the headlights of puffing switc

h-engines tur▓ned streaks of the night into broad day.I▓ escaped detection only by vigilant do▓dging.There were goods’ vans wi▓thout number

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  • , an endless forest of the▓m, but

  • they were sealed or loaded with so?/p>

  • 坢e vile-smelling cargo; passenge▓r coa

  • ch was there none.I struck off boldl


y a●cross the tracks towards the li●ghted station.The glare of a head-light was tu▓rned full upon me and without● the slightest warning I felt myself launch●ed into space

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    so suddenly that I did n●ot lose my upright posture.The

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    d, blue lett

    sensation ●of falling seemed of several

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    ?was past.The ex-pearl-fisher ha●d evidently gone on, an

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    k was scra

    being thrown from a high build▓ing.Long after the world above had disa▓ppea

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    red, I landed in utter darkne●ss, all unhur

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    t except for the barking of● my nose.Near at hand s

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    ow bee

    ever●al live coals gleamed like watchi▓ng eyes.I had w

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    alked into a cinder▓-pit on the round-house track.

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    na becaze

    A lady of● quality of Delhi out for a drive Hi▓ndu women d

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    lock o

    rinking cocoanut-milk 353By dint● of a cat-like spring from the● top of the largest

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    heap of ashes, I▓ grasped the rail above and drew myself out●, to find the engine crew prepar

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    ▓wn h

    ing to descend ▓into the pit to recover my bod▓y.The s

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